link.png Milan Fashion Week: from understated luxury to retro Sci-Fi← Back

Whether it’s with low-key or exuberant shows, the labels at Milan Fashion Week know how to do luxury fashion well. Here are the key collections you need to know about for Autumn/Winter 15. 

This season, all eyes were on Gucci following the recent upheavals at the fashion house. Alessandro Michele, who has succeeded Frida Giannini as the new Creative Director, presented his debut collection for the label. The collection referenced a quote by philosopher Roland Barthes ‘The Contemporary is the Untimely’ and hit a fine line between the feminine and androgynous. 

Image source - Jil Sander
The Jil Sander show opened on a simple blue look, setting the tone for the rest of the collection. Rodolfo Paglialunga designed a clean, minimal collection for Autumn/Winter 15 consisting primarily of long silhouettes and block colours. With barely a pattern in sight apart from a few diagonal lines, the collection was an example of understated luxury. 

Image source - Etro

Etro couldn’t have been further removed from the minimal aesthetic of Jil Sander. In true Etro spirit, patterns were rife as the designer took inspiration from the world of interiors. Tapestry-like prints featured in panels or in patchworking. The predominance of muted reds, oranges and browns gave the collection a warm, autumnal feel. 

It was a pastel affair at Prada in a kaleidoscope of baby pinks, mustard yellows and soft greys presented against a pastel backdrop. Sixties shapes were counterbalanced by the futuristic notes of space-boots and a neoprene-like jersey, in a collection which Miuccia Prada decided to label as “soft pop”.

Image source - Fendi

Art was the starting point for Fendi’s Autumn/Winter collection as Creative Directors Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi turned to the work of artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp for inspiration. The full white looks that opened the show became the canvas for explorations in shape, texture and colour with a strong focus on structured pieces and oversized coats.

Today marks the last day of Milan Fashion Week: time to see what the Paris-based designers have to offer.